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Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2026: The Return of Icons and the Rise of Craft

George Reid, Elizabeth Smith, & Ryan Gentry May 5th, 2026

Among many of our staff, Cartier was the brand to watch at Watches and Wonders 2026. The Maison showcased some of the most exciting releases of the year so far.

With long-awaited revivals, beautiful bracelet design, and exquisite integration of their fine jewelry making, Cartier’s latest releases feel both nostalgic and forward-thinking. Let’s break down what stood out.

The return of the Roadster

After years of wishing, wishing, and wishing again: the Roadster is back with an updated design.

Cartier clearly took their time here. The new Roadster feels familiar, but every detail has been refined. The case has been smoothed, reworked, and rebalanced. It wears right in that sweet spot, sitting between the old medium and large sizes. To use a George-approved metaphor: if the original Roadster is a Porsche 911, the update has the thoughtful respect to design of a Singer reimagining.

Another highlight here is the dial. Instead of the traditional flat or lightly textured Cartier dial, this one has depth. It matches the bold curvature of the case and brings a new level of presence to the watch, featuring more blue tone in the hands (for the steel models) and lacquer-filled indices.

The new Roadster is offered in medium and large sizes and in steel, two-tone, and yellow gold options. The steel option specifically can be optioned with a blue dial (George is celebrating a blue dial available in steel, as the original blue dial was only available in white gold). The blue dial option is available on a rubber strap as well, a surprising and fun fit for the new (old) release.

Welcome back to an American classic.

Santos expands: Chronographs, color, and vintage energy

Santos Chronograph shrinks down to large

Cartier moves away from the XL-only chronograph and introduces a large-size version with a traditional two-pusher layout. It’s a small change, but impactful and makes the striking dial layout available to more wrist sizes. 

The previous design, while interesting with its single pusher and crown-reset system, was only available in the XL size option. This new version feels very at home in the lineup, and is well-proportioned for people accustomed to the classic large size. 

New varnish dials

Cartier is also leaning into color again, with a burgundy dial arriving this year in the two-tone small size, and a gray varnish in the medium. 

Santos-Dumont: The bracelet that stole the show

Cartier Santos-Dumont 

If there was one under-the-radar standout, this might be it. 

Cartier introduced a new bracelet for the Santos-Dumont, and it’s exceptional. The intricate, 15-link construction gives the new bracelet almost a mesh-like feel on the wrist. Rumor has it a single bracelet takes approximately 80 hours of manufacturing time, and it shows. 

The result is incredibly comfortable and visually striking. It feels vintage-inspired but executed with modern precision; exactly what Cartier does best. 

Paired with a yellow gold case and black agate dial, this was easily one of the most compelling watches of the week. 

Cartier's diamond work is on another level

Cartier also took the opportunity with some of their small and mini offerings to showcase an amazing fusion of horology and fine jewelry craft.. 

The new snow setting technique creates a more organic, almost randomized sparkle, think true pavè, Cartier-style. 

Instead of uniform flashes, the diamonds catch light at different angles as the watch moves. The effect is dynamic, subtle, and far more interesting than traditional pavé. 

You can find the new snow setting on display on the mini and small Tank Louis models, as well as the mini Panthère. 

Baignoire: Jewelry meets watchmaking

Cartier Baignoire 

Cartier’s Baignoire continues its momentum as the new “it-girl” watch. This year, the focus shifts toward more jewelry-driven executions, including offerings in Clou de Paris textures and a very rock-and-roll reverse-set diamond piece. 

Tortue returns

Cartier Tortue 

Another long-awaited return, the Tortue comes back in a more accessible format featuring some smaller sizes. Both the diamond-set variations and the baguette bezel version are stunning, as well as the clean standard yellow gold model. 

Cartier is clearly leaning into diamond setting; the level of craftsmanship in the diamond-set models is extraordinary, with each stone shaped specifically for its position on the case. 

Lightning round: Cartier Privé

Cartier’s Privé collection continues to explore heritage pieces, with 2026 revealing a clear emphasis on platinum. 

The three announced pieces include a Tank Normale with a beautiful brushed bracelet, a fan-favorite Tortue monopusher chronograph, and a limited 150-piece Crash in platinum, fully skeletonized 

The Crash release caught our attention. It remains one of the most iconic and elusive watches in the world, and this new release features a redesigned movement with a repositioned crown. This version of the Privé Crash will be a limited world-wide production of 150 pieces. 

Even with “expanded” production, this will still be one of the hardest watches in the world to access. 

Final thoughts

Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2026 releases were about reviving icons, elevating craftsmanship by integrating their jewelrymaking, and continuing to flesh out some well-performing fan favorite offerings. There’s not a miss in the bunch; 2026 is a clear homerun for the Maison. 


Check out Our Full Review on our YouTube Channel, Watches by Oliver Smith Jeweler.